Kafue Lodge

The stresses of city life drifted away with the heady aroma of pure tranquility. Ripples from hidden fish constantly teased the glassy waters of the Kafue River. A huge thunderhead was reflected perfectly, fantastic orange and pink tinges reaching to ethereal heights of the evening sky, thunder rumbling around inside her hidden depths.

Here I was, only an hour’s drive from the treadmill of the Copperbelt towns and within spitting distance of Lusaka by light plane.

Set on the banks of the river, Kafue Lodge offers excellent bream fishing for amateur and professional fishermen alike. The abundance of fish demonstrated by the success of Zambia’s annual ‘River Lure’ fishing competition which is held not far downstream.

But if your angling is more accustomed to hooking fish-like sticks – just enjoy a gentle cruise on one of the most beautiful rivers in Zambia. The light has an exquisite clarity in the cool hours of the day, enabling the Kafue to flirt at her best and offering wonderful photographic opportunities.

Kafue Lodge is located on a 2000+ hectare game farm. Walks and game viewing tracks meander through dambos and tall Miombo woodland, characteristic of this part of Zambia.

There are currently over ten species of antelope including – sable, the majestic bull with lithe, ebony body and sweeping horns; the bovine-like eland; the strikingly beautiful kudu and, of course, Burchell’s zebra which are always a pleasure to see.

The lodge is a spectacular bird paradise, boasting frequent sightings of rare and usually elusive species such as the African Finfoot, Pel’s Fishing Owl and Lady Ross’ Lourie. The range of habitats provides for particularly rewarding birding including all the special Miombo species.

It is a beautiful place to explore. I took my bicycle, creaking and complaining, on a ride along the game tracks, with the wind in my hair, huffing and puffing. I felt rather self-conscious as a group of waterbuck stood and stared in bewilderment at the strange spectacle. But I was amazed at being able to get so close to them without a hint of fear.

Catering for a maximum of sixteen guests, the lodge offers charming intimacy. The en-suite chalets nestled into the surrounding bush, are positively luxurious – with crisp white linen and piping hot showers. The lodge is romantically lit up in the evenings but do be aware that the battery-power system can’t handle appliances like hairdryers.

Guests have the option of self-catering or full board. Dinner from the restaurant is a three-course gourmet’s delight; Sunday lunch is a traditional roast with all the trimmings and the most delicious, mouth-watering, homemade desserts. Meals are supplemented from the lodge’s organic vegetable garden and wonderful local produce including Mpongwe coffee, lamb and forest honey.

If you prefer self-catering, the facilities are brilliant, with everything that you would need from a salad bowl to a wine glass. Each chalet has an open-plan kitchen, complete with braai and dining area. There is the added luxury of a small fridge, although do bring ice if you want your drinks to be arctic.

Speaking of chilly, even during the hottest months of the year you will need something light to wrap up in as the evenings are gorgeously cool beside the river.

To maintain exclusivity for guests, camping is not permitted and a small entrance fee is charged for day visitors. Access to the lodge is suitable for Sedan cars, with the best tar road in Zambia from Luanshya and an excellent laterite road from Mpongwe for the last section. Alternatively fly into the lodge airfield (by prior arrangement.)

For a special treat in the dry season, the lodge is only 25 minutes drive through the woodland from Lake Kashiba National Monument. A beautiful, mysterious sunken lake surrounded by African myths. Completely enclosed in white limestone and with the incredible depth of the lake, the water has a strange aquamarine colour. It is a gorgeous place to spend a relaxing day with a picnic and perhaps a cool swim or a snorkel. Enjoy the adrenaline rush of jumping off the high cliffs to flop around in the water. Or explore the nearby Mushitu forest where clear streams trickle through the undergrowth. We were ecstatic to see a group of Blue Monkey’s high up in the canopy. Even though I had my trained safari guide along with me (who shall remain nameless for the sake of embarrassment), it took us a while to work out what these dark, hairy things were jumping among the trees – like something out of an Attenborough documentary – a very special treat.

Who needs any encouragement to explore this secret oasis?