Chete Island

Chete is an island in Lake Kariba and although I visited there about a year ago, I was keen to go again, so I persuaded a friend to come with me – just for a night – so that we could have a break from Livingstone. It’s a 3-4 hour drive from Livingstone; about the same from Lusaka.

Gail and Paul, the managers of Chete Island, were there to welcome us and as we were late arriving – running on Zambian time – we were quickly bundled into the trimaran for the one-hour crossing to the island. Gail and Paul have been running the island since it started just over two years ago and are excellent hosts. On this trip over to the island, they brought with them a small cage containing a baby duiker. Paul had seen the duiker for sale on the side of the road and had bought it. They were now hand rearing it until it was strong enough to be released onto one of the islands in the lake.

The trip over to the island is part of the Chete experience. It is so much fun on the trimaran with the sails billowing in the wind and no noise of a speedboat engine. The lake can be a bit choppy at times but the trimaran felt perfectly safe.

The Island is long and thin island and about 27 square kilometres in extent. The animals have been virtually undisturbed since the building of Kariba Dam in the 1950s. The animals were trapped on the island as the water rose and have been there ever since. It is probably only the elephant which can come and go as they please – they can swim over to Zimbabwe across the 300 metres of water to the mainland. The other animals on the island include impala, warthog, kudu, leopard and lion. As we approached Chete there were several elephant around the camp. They are attracted to the camp because of the small area of lush green grass that Gail and Paul try to maintain for the benefit of the clients. But is seems that the elephant think that it is for them too and they are always trying to cross the branch barrier in order to feast themselves.

I had hoped that the island had seen some rain (we’d had very little in Livingstone) but they had had none – not a drop. The island was dry … except for the green grass at the lodge. The lodge staff were under strict instructions to keep the elephant off the grass and, as we drew up to the jetty, the staff were busy throwing stones at one elephant as it stepped over the branch barrier and onto the lawn. Gail jumped off the boat, ran up to the lodge and, waving her arms and shouting, told the elephant to get lost. Which he did.

Entertainment on Chete is walking or boating. That evening we were taken out on a small pontoon for sundowners and some fishing. The lake was calm and it was a pleasure to sit out on the lake drinking beer and enjoying the sunset. We didn’t catch any fish but that didn’t matter – fishing was only the excuse to be out there. Later, we ate our dinner under the stars and an almost-full moon, listening to the night noises and the water as it lapped on the shoreline.

Paul escorted us to our rooms after dinner – the elephant were still around. We heard a noise in the bush not far from the footpath and Paul said it was probably just an impala. He left me at my room and then went on to the next one. A few minutes later I saw his torchlight coming down the path; it stopped and then retreated. Then a minute later I saw him walking in front of the chalet back to the lodge – I said to him, you see, Paul, it was an elephant. As I was getting ready for bed, the elephant walked between the chalets and started to munch the branches where it stayed for about half an hour. I watched from the safety of my chalet – it was only a few feet away, and being a moonlit night could be seen clearly.

The following morning I was woken up by the birds. One of the most enchanting things about Chete is that the birds are so friendly. They have not been exposed to catapults and human interference and therefore don’t worry too much being around humans. They come around the lodge site picking amongst the leaves for things to eat totally oblivious to the dangers of us humans. I enjoyed my early morning coffee watching them and then took myself off for an early morning stroll with the Chete guide called Rowan.

He took me along the shoreline into a couple of other bays around the island. I must admit that I spent my time thinking about the story of the making of Kariba dam and was not terribly interested in the spoor of a leopard or the sleeping spot of a hippo. My mind was thinking of all that water and how it had risen in 1958/9 after the wall was completed. It must have been an amazing sight to see the water rise up and drown out a whole valley – its wildlife, its villages and its history. Thinking of all that lay below that expanse of water was eerie.

After a huge Sunday breakfast we climbed aboard the trimaran for our journey back to the mainland and then on to Livingstone. Although it had only been a short stay it had definitely been worthwhile. Next time, though, I must try to stay for an extra night so that I can see more of the island.

Access to Chete is via Batoka and Sinazeze, down to Sinazongwe. The Westlake Office (for Chete Island) is on the lake shore.

Chete Island is a designated Bird Sanctuary and so far, they have identified more than two hundred species of bird. The wildlife on the island includes elephant, leopard, a large variety of antelope, hippos and don’t forget the crocs (I think nothing of swimming in the Lake at Siavonga, but here you won’t find me within ten metres of the water – Ed)

Activities at Chete include game walks, game viewing by motorised boat around the island, canoeing, fishing and sailing.

Bookings can be made by email to chete@zamnet.zm or phone on 01-483045 or 01-483144. If these are difficult, an alternate number is 097 882-723 where you can leave a message and they will get back to you.