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Right On Our Door Step!
By Glenda Thompson
Two year’s ago we visited, but didn’t stay in, the newly opened
Lechwe Plains tented camp which is situated on the Chunga Lagoon in
the Southern Province’s Lochinvar National Park. It is one of Star
Of Africa’s “Paradise Rediscovered” resorts in Zambia, the others,
all up market, but with special local and regional rates, are Sussi
and Chuma in Livingstone, Kulefu in the Lower Zambezi National Park,
and Chichele and Puku Ridge in the South Luangwa National Park.
We were looking forward to a return visit, as the small unobtrusive
camp that nestles under huge winterthorn trees on the shores of the
Chunga Lagoon on the Kafue Flats held a lot of promise. At the time
it was, still is, the only place to stay in the Park.
Situated 282 km from Livingstone and 186 km from Lusaka, the
Lochinvar National Park is located on the southern edge of the Kafue
Flats, a wide floodplain of the Kafue River between Itezhi-Teshi Dam
in the west and Kafue Gorge in the east. It includes the large,
shallow, Chunga Lagoon, which fluctuates considerably in size with
variations in river levels. Our weekend visit in May coincided with
a rise in the water level, and as we drove into camp, several
leguaan or water monitors scuttled off into the river after having
had the shoreline to themselves for a few days, and we frightened a
huge flock of Spurwing geese that had been wallowing in the shallows
and watched them wing their way majestically out to a hazy island on
the Lagoon.
There are six huge tented chalets at Lechwe Plains, each ensuite and
with a sumptuous bath and wonderfully comfortable
(pretty-hard-to-leave-in-the-early-morning) beds. The staff were
pleasant and friendly and the food perfectly adequate. The whole
living area is open plan and looks out onto the lily laden and,
sadly, Mimosa Pigra (an invasive bush like plant) infested lagoon.
Getting to the camp was a little easier than it had been a few years
back and instead of taking a good three hours from the turn off at
Monze because the roads were so shocking, it took a mere hour and a
half in our four wheel drive vehicle. The reason for the improvement
in the roads was because of a concession that had been drawn up
before the inception of the camp between Star of Africa, ZAWA (the
Zambian Wildlife Authority) and the WWF (World Wildlife Fund). All
three wanted to see the Park, which had been very much a Cinderella
of Zambia’s National Parks, restored to its former glory. WWF
pledged to support Star of Africa in a number of ways, one of which
was working on the roads. They also agreed to work closely with ZAWA
on the rehabilitation of the infrastructure and help keep a tight
control on poaching in the area.
 It
is clear to see that the partnership has worked well. The roads and
airstrip have undergone a dramatic change, although there is still
room for improvement on the road (the heavy rains earlier in the
year didn’t help), and the presence of a tourist facility in the
area has helped ZAWA in executing its work plans via increased
income from park fees and the support that a private venture is able
to provide. The wildlife itself has increased in density as they
seek protection in the area near the camp. ZAWA have a satellite
camp a kilometre from Lechwe Plains.
The plains at Lochinvar are situated a few kilometre from the camp
and they are a truly magnificent sight. We visited them with our
guide and Camp Manager, Mike Muvishi, early in the morning and in
the warm glow of sunrise were greeted with the sight of simply
masses of birds —including two large flocks of crowned and wattled
crane, thousands of the endemic Kafue Lechwe and hundreds of zebra,
wading in the floodwaters and flock after flock of waterbirds
circling and calling to each other over head. There are no words to
describe the vastness of the plain. Turn back time and there would
have been herds of buffalo, wildebeest, kudu and other plains game
roaming the plains and one can live in hope that in good time
they’ll be back.
Our two days stay at Lechwe Plains was filled with different and
interesting experiences. There was the banana boat trip to Nyimba
Fishing Village. This is a favourite with overseas visitors as they
get to see these easy going rural folk going about their every day
life: mending their fishing nets, brewing traditional beer, tending
their small gardens and taking to the water on their makora’s for a
day’s fishing. In keeping with their policy of helping to up-grade
the infrastructure in the local communities in which they operate,
Star of Africa are helping the residents at Nyimba with various
projects, from renovating the little primary school and giving them
a library, to up-grading the clinic and helping to fund a Craft
Market.
We also tried our hand at fishing and caught some interesting—albeit
pretty small—varieties of fish. I loved the large mouthed squeaker
that I caught. He swore loudly at me (definitely didn’t squeak) the
whole time I had him out of the water. I took his photo and threw
him back while he muttered on incessantly. The highlight of the
fishing trip was watching a hippo dance. He leapt out of the water
and plunged, as gracefully as a hippo can, back in several times
while we watched. He was probably indicating to a mate across the
way that he was under no circumstances to come into his territory.
Or he was simply warning us not to get any closer while he was
having private ballet lessons.
We could have also gone on a makora ride in the shallows but decided
against this as the breeze on the water was quite chilly in May. A
fun thing to do in summer no doubt.
Although Lochinvar has always been known as a birders paradise, one
does not have to be a bird fundi to appreciate the amazing variety
of birds in the park. There are over 420 species, including some
rarities like the swallow tailed bee-eater, the yellow bull bull,
the racket tailed roller to name a few. Our guide, Mike, was
particularly interested in seeing the yellow throated sand grouse
which is commonly found in Lochinvar.
Lechwe Plains is a great getaway spot and would be ideal for a small
conference if being “off the beaten track” is a requirement. Guests
can also be flown in if the drive proves too daunting, although the
road is actually a lot easier to negotiate than the Lower Zambezi
track.
To book, contact Star of Africa on email reservations@starofafrica.co.zw
or
info@starofafrica.co.zw |
August 2004