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A Sorry Sight
Lochinvar, a name
which we all know and which is synonymous with prolific bird life.
And for the history freaks, we have always imagined a gracious
colonial house which was the original farmhouse on what was once a
productive and profitable cattle ranch (although I have not yet been
able to establish with absolute certainty who the farm belonged to).
It is also home to Gwisho Hot Springs, an important archaeological
site; Sebanzi Hill and Drum Rocks. A visit had long been on my
‘to-do’ list.
Being, as always,
short of time, we decided that the best we could manage was a
day-trip and set off early on Sunday morning. By 8 am we were in
Monze and were certainly not looking forward to the road into the
park. But surprisingly, the road was not too bad, although a high
clearance vehicle and careful driving is required and by
10.30 am were at the park gates. Although finding it was
perhaps more a matter of luck for there were a number of turnoffs or
forks where we weren’t absolutely sure that we had taken the right
one.
First stop was
the old farmhouse. We knew that it was in a sorry state, but we
didn’t realize just what a sorry state it would be. I understand
that the house is supposed to be refurbished and restored, but quite
frankly, I don’t see how anybody could reasonably be expected to do
this and eventually make a return on the money invested. Perhaps if
the park was teeming with game (as it was many years ago) but even
then, one would be hard pressed to make it pay, even in a small
way. The location is also not ideal; not because of the view or the
surrounding bush, but because of the surrounding buildings (none of
them part of the original farm buildings; all of them in a run down
state and none would, I imagine, fall under the jurisdiction of the
lodge operator).
 So
there I was, after only five minutes, disillusioned and disappointed
that one of our heritage sites could not be turned around to become
accessible to the public and angry; angry that, once again,
somewhere in our not-so-distant past, the people responsible for
preserving, maintaining and caring for the common-user facilities of
this country had not done their job. And angry that this still
continues; evidenced by the furniture that had been haphazardly
thrown into an unsecured store room (we merely opened the door and
walked in) with the inevitable start of termite mounds. It will not
be long before this furniture has been devoured when, with just a
small amount of care and attention, it could still be put to very
good use.
But there was no
point in hanging about, we had some ground to cover that day and
headed off in the direction of Lechwe Plains Tented Camp (see
On Our Doorstep) We were not expected
there, but did want to have a quick look around just to see for
ourselves and we also knew that this was the area in which we were
most likely to see large numbers of Lechwe. We were not disappointed
on the Lechwe score and impressed with the camp although we would
like to have seen Zambian maps and books rather than (or if
absolutely necessary, in addition to) Zimbabwean ones.
Then it was back
to the southern end of the park for a look at the hot springs. On
the way, after a wrong turn somewhere, we found ourselves driving
along the perimeter of the ZAWA staff camp. What a disgrace ! Not
the buildings or facilities, but the litter, just thrown out and
swept to the edge of their ‘garden’ areas. Yet, in the ZAWA office
at the main gate, was a long memo about the need to keep this
national park clean and free of litter. Another case of saying all
the right things, but that is as far as it goes.
Gwisho Hot
Springs, whilst not earth-shaking were nice to see and they are hot
(between 60 and 90 degrees C, depending on the time of the year) and
surrounded by a stand of fan palms (Hyphaene petersian or
"vegetable ivory".) Although it is agreed that natural features
should be kept in their original state, we did feel that this area
could be ‘developed’ in some way so that the hot springs become a
place that is worth visiting; a place where visitors to the park
could spend some time relaxing and enjoying them and the surrounding
area. There is very little else to attract visitors.
Time was getting
short and we decided to give the big Baobab tree a miss and make our
way back to the ZAWA offices. On our way in, we had stopped there
very briefly and were pleased to see that refurbishing of the
offices was underway. I just hope that when this work is completed,
all rubble and rubbish (and vehicle skeletons) will be removed and
the surrounding area cleaned up. But the shock of the trip was still
to come.
 From
a distance we saw a vehicle, complete with trailer (loaded on which
was a quad-bike) parked near the offices. Imagine our horror when
getting closer to find that on the back of this vehicle were six
very dead Lechwe.
After questioning
the two gentlemen who were strapping down the bike and the ZAWA
personnel who were there, we established that the vehicle, trailer
and bike were the property of a Mazabuka businessman; that these
Lechwe had been shot in the GMA adjacent to the park (although how
the border is demarcated, we don’t know) and that the quad-bike was
indeed used. We also understood that licences had been issued for
these animals to be hunted.
But imagine this
– a tour operator with a load of tourists is touring the park; these
tourists have come to see wild animals on the hoof and they come
across a load of dead animals. Yeah, great ! Not only are they (by
this time) disappointed by the lack of game to be seen in the game
park (and Zambia in general) which is way below expectations (and
way below what one is often made to believe) but they are now
confronted by the evidence of this slaughter. If they have not
already disappeared over the horizon in a cloud of dust, one
imagines that they would then start questioning the hunting method –
was the quad-bike used to pursue the animals frightening the wits
out of them, did they stand a fair chance?
But, I think,
many would not even get to thinking that far. They will have
disappeared, never to visit this country again, never to recommend
to their friends and acquaintances that Zambia is a holiday
destination.
Whilst I am not a
fan of hunting, I am realistic enough to realise that it does have
its place but please, can we not find some way so that we do not
frighten off the few tourists that are visiting us. HC |
August 2004