February 2005


 

 

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Livingstone’s Nyala Lodge

Affordable Getaway In The Bush

By Glenda Thompson

 

Livingstone harbours many interesting and varied getaway spots, and over the years they have popped up everywhere in Zambia’s Tourist Capital. They’re along the shores of the Zambezi, in the town itself, and occasionally, just nestling quietly in the bush, which is where we found Nyala Lodge. Situated in a lush, bird filled combretum forest, Nyala is literally just off the beaten track, and conveniently close enough to Livingstone (5 km’s) and the Falls (6 km’s) and the Game Park (3 km’s) to make the odd foray out for a spot of adventure. At US$44 per person per night, (October to March) it is one of the more affordable Lodges in the Livingstone area.

 

We arrived at Nyala at dusk on a hot October evening and were greeted by the friendly colourfully attired staff, and after a quiet shandy by the pool, which is right beside the bar and dining area, (perfect if you have small children and need to keep an eye on them) shown to our chalets. There are twelve in all, all cool, thatched, and with a unique feature, the showers. I remember visiting Nyala when it was under construction and marvelling at the extraordinary amount of rock that was being carted to the bathrooms. The end result is a mini Vic Falls in each bathroom, with the water cascading from a rock overhead. It was also interesting to note space for a third bed in each chalet—ideal for families with odd numbers !

 

Supper of delicious, crispy fish and chips, steak and salad and pork chops and fresh veg was a convivial affair, with visitors from Denmark joining us, and telling of their plans to explore the Falls and the Park by taxi the following day. They had just flown in to Livingstone and had been picked up from the airport by taxi (US15.00 from the airport to Nyala). The taxi driver had given them strict instructions not to go close to the Zambezi as they would be “swallowed by the hippo”. One wonders how many tourists are given this cheerful warning about old herbivore hippo. Definitely a dangerous fellow when cornered. It’s a fact that he will charge and stomp … but charge and chomp? Nah!

 

Meals at Nyala are not included in the price of accommodation—unless one specifies this in the booking, and it gives one a chance to sample the fare at the restaurants in town and at other establishments in the area. We had dinner at Ngolide Lodge in town the following night and although service was a little sedate the food was excellent. They specialise in Indian food and whether you like it subtly fragrant or bursting with heat and flavour, you won’t be disappointed.

 

Nyala is literally within spitting distance of the Zambezi River, the Falls and the Mosi oa Tunya Game Park, so very handy if one has guests visiting from overseas that haven’t been to the Falls and are on a tight budget. A great place to take visitors to shop for unusual curios is the Mukuni Curio Park in the centre of Livingstone. One can get a good bargain there and the craftwork is of a good standard.

 

It’s most often the service at a place that leaves a lasting impression, and the staff at Nyala made our stay there comfortable and pleasant. We’ll be back.

 

Contact them on email: nyala@zamnet.zm or phone 03 322446