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Kasaka River Lodge
When you arrive at Kasaka and head across fresh green lawns to your
tent, you’ll see a bright turquoise swimming pool perched high above
the silver-blue Zambezi and its reedy yellow islands. It’s a view
that reminded me of Wordsworth’s lines immediately:
Earth has not anything to show more fair,
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Kasaka River Lodge is only a couple of years old, and the care in
siting it, plus the attention to detail in the accommodation, is
striking. From the outside, the spacious green tents erected on
raised stone slabs look fairly standard issue. But inside, the
ceiling and sides are lined with a cool creamy fabric, there are
well-sprung beds with crisp linens, bedside lamps which are operable
all night, and a verandah overlooking the river where morning tea
appears at dawn.
 The
ensuite bathroom has cupboards in polished mukwa, a dressing table
backed by a big mirror, a modern stainless steel washbasin, and
efficient hot showers.
The tents are grouped on either side of the thatched main
lounge-dining room area, with its broad deck over the river. The
‘tame’ side has neat lawns and shady green trees, while on the
‘wild’ side the natural bushveld has been left untouched. On that
side, tents are reached by a high walkway, under which a well-used
elephant track leads down to the river. Elephant and hippo wander
all over the Lodge grounds at night, while the occasional elephant
will drop in by day to visit the pool; vervet monkeys amuse
themselves in the trees, and the only sound is birdsong.
So
what to do? A boat trip down the Zambezi in the late afternoon will
bring you up very close to elephant families drinking, washing and
feeding, while large herds of buffalo boldly return your stare, and
big pods of hippo can be seen right out of the water, instead of the
usual disembodied heads.
It’s spectacular but safe; even the protective elephant mother
suckling her baby, who trumpeted at us crossly to go away, could not
have charged in the river.
On
the reed islands, wetland birds are everywhere – herons, storks,
egrets, plovers, geese, cormorants and dozens more. Land birds like
hornbills, bee-eaters, eagles, hawks, rollers and hammerkops prefer
the skies over the park. Check them all against the list in your
tent of the 375 local birds.
 On
game drives too, check the mammal and reptile checklist provided,
looking out for hyena and lion and warthog by day, and leopard and
porcupine by night, and many more.
Kasaka is famous for its fishing, especially the fighting tiger. The
visitor’s fishing log records catches of 12 pound tiger, 24 pound
vundu, and joyful entries such as ‘I caught 35 tiger and 2 vundu in
5 days!’ But the strict catch and release policy ensures that the
river is not depleted.
You can also take walks escorted by guides knowledgeable about all
the flora and fauna. But book beforehand, as an armed game guard has
to be secured to accompany you. If requested early enough, botanical
or painting safaris, and mountain walks into the purple hills
backing the park, can be arranged.
A
look through the Lodge visitor’s book reveals enthusiastic comments
on their visits from Americans, Spanish, Swiss, Danish and
Australian guests. They have to a go a long way to enjoy Kasaka,
while here it’s on your doorstep – what are you waiting for?
Getting there is usually by air charter to a nearby airstrip, and
transfer to the lodge by open Land Cruiser. Boat transfers from
Gwabi Camp near Chirundu may sometimes be possible, if there is
sufficient demand. And if you have a tough vehicle and an
adventurous driver you can drive, but that takes about five or six
hours from Lusaka. Towards the end the road is pretty bad, with
steep dongas and sandy river beds to cross. But hey, this is the
Real Africa – why not? There’s always that pool above the Zambezi at
the end of the drive.
 Bookings:
Telephone 01 265-836 / 260-012, email:
silky-kasaka@zamnet.zm, web:
www.kasakariverlodge.com or through your travel agent |
October
2005