Mutemwa Lodge : Western Zambia's 'Hens' Tooth'

We were delighted, therefore to hear, from fishing fundi friends who are seriously into their off-the-beaten-track getaway spots, about Mutemwa Fishing Lodge which is situated on the Zambezi River 250 km up-stream from Victoria Falls. It takes around three hours to get to from Livingstone on an excellent, newly tarred road all the way to Sesheke, the border post between Zambia and Namibia, and then a fifty km dirt, rather heavily pot holed road to the lodge. The good news, however, is that the road from Sesheke to Mongu has been earmarked by NORAD for tarring and will be in operation all year round within the next eighteen months.

Mutemwa, which now falls under the Royal Barotse Safari’s flagship, is owned and run by Gavin (ex Springbok Full back from the victorious ’95 squad) and Penny Johnson. They fell in love with the area after a camping trip in December 1995 on the Mutemwa site, which is situated in Miomba woodland right beside a wide swathe of the Zambezi River. After Gavin’s meeting with Chief Imwiko, the Senior Chief in the area (now the Litunga) a project proposal was put together for “Mutemwa,” the Lozi word for forest. Papers were signed in January ’96 and the first guests arrived at camp in September of that year.

We were impressed with the wonderful isolation of this Lodge. Far, very far, from the madding crowd and not another motor boat in sight! Sixteen people can be catered for in wonderfully cool, luxurious bush tents all en suite and positioned on an elevated deck ensuring stunning views of the river. The food, despite the distance from civilization, is fresh and delicious. Penny has established a large vegetable garden under shade cloth ensuring that there is a ready supply of fresh “greens” all year round. The dining area is in a unique setting. Guests are seated in a circular boma around (in the winter) a blazing lead wood fire. Very convivial and the service is excellent. The cost at Mutemwa, which includes all meals and activities (including fishing, boat hire etc) and only excludes the bar bill is in the region of US$ 150 to 250 pppn.

Mutemwa also runs a camp site which is situated on the water’s edge and a kilometre from the Lodge. It is totally self sufficient and boasts a clean ablution block with hot showers. Boats, with a guide, can be hired from the Lodge. Camping costs K50,000 pppn and boat hire is charged out at around K750,000 per day.

The main activity at the lodge is, of course, tiger fishing. We were there with a group of enthusiasts from the States trying their hand at fly fishing. They skilfully hauled in some huge fish and as Mutemwa has a catch and release policy, slid them back to let them fight another day! It was the wrong time of year to catch bream (May) but some fairly large Redbreast and Three Spot Tilapia are caught from October to April.

Birding is another activity at camp. Camp Manager, Cuan Rush helped well known ornithologist, Guy Gibbon, put together the Robert’s Multi Media Birds of Southern Africa pocket computer and can identify birdcalls at the drop of a hat! Either on an early morning or evening walk one can spot the Schalow’s Loerie (Turaco), Narina Trogan, Pels Fishing owl, the African Finfoot, the African Sedge Warbler, plenty of the beautiful White Fronted Bee Eater, all nesting in the river bank, several raptor species, including the king of water birds in Africa, the Fish Eagle – they seem to be much bigger down at Mutemwa. I was also interested to hear that a few Crested Guineafowl, quite a rare sight, have also been spotted beside the camp.

One of the highlights of our stay was a five star champagne breakfast on one of the many islands in the river. Perfect, after a frustrating morning reeling in an enormous fish – and watching it wave its tail in a farewell salute 10 metres from the boat!

When the Johnson’s moved to Mutemwa ten year’s ago there were hardly any hippo in the vicinity but the population has increased rapidly over the years and a resident “bloat” wallows in the shallows in front of the camp in the evenings. A resident herd of elephant also wanders through the bush close by from time to time and vervet monkeys scamper through camp with mischievous intent. Mutemwa is in a Game Management area and the closest park is the Sioma Ngwezi National Park, situated 20 kms from camp as the crow flies. The Litunga intends to create a corridor between Sioma Ngwezi and the Zambezi River from Lusu to Sioma with the long term goal being to restore game to the area. Royal Barotse Safari’s have been given the go ahead to build an eight chalet Lodge in the Park and this is scheduled for completion by the end of 2006. The new lodge, which will be situated at Maziba Bay, is a 5 km boat ride up the gorge to the Ngonye Falls. A self catering facility is also being built at the bay and activities will include rafting the many rapids on the Zambezi in that neck of the woods.

Mutemwa maintains the airstrip which is situated 7 kms from the Lodge and have regular charters flying in from Livingstone. Royal Barotse Safari’s are also one of the only operators offering a “flyin”package to clients wanting to see the Wildebeest migration on the Liuwa Plains – the second largest gathering (upwards of 25,000) in Africa. Specialized fishing safaris to the Barotse Flood Plains from July to September- catching tiger and bream - and a visit to the famous Kuomboka ceremony, when the Lozi King, the Litunga, journeys from his winter palace at Lealui, about 15 km from Mongu, to dry ground - in February/March – are also on offer.

Contact the Johnson’s on +27 82 9902-405 or +27 11 2341-747 fax +27 11 2341-748 or email mutemwa.lodge@mweb.co.za

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