July 2006


 

 

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July 2006

 

The Munali Musketeers

 

Dennis Muchaya : An Update

 

Black Lechwe Not Extinct

 

Which is It, Lealuyi or Lealuyi?

 

A View To The Promised Land

 

Uganda, The Green Pearl of Africa

 

Rally 2006

 

Regulars

 

Restaurant Review Golden Chopsticks

 

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Luangwa Valley Dispatches

 

Mazabuka Mutterings

 

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Uganda – The Green Pearl Of Africa!

By Glenda Thompson

Having recently returned from an amazing week in Uganda, hot on the heels of a splendid ten days in Ireland, one cannot help but compare the two countries. They’re both so lush, vibrant and GREEN …  a sight for sore eyes after the dust, the dirt and the dying vegetation that seems to abound in the southern hemisphere at this time of year. After flying into Entebbe in the early evening and spending the night at a comfortable little guest house (the Boma)  only a few km’s from the airport  our journey took us from Kampala on Lake Victoria in the East to Ankole in the South West and then in a northerly direction along the foothills of the Ruwenzori Mountains. We were never far from the equator  and the weather was always mild and very pleasant.  It rained now and again but usually at night.  Another similarity with Ireland (and in fact Zambia), were the  people.  Kind, friendly and happy to help. 

There are over 50 tribes and many more dialects, English being the main language spoken.  In fact children learn English from class one, so there is no stumbling around trying to find the right word in the local language.  English will do perfectly.

An interesting and popular form of transport is the “Bodaboda” or Honda scooter.  Tiny taxis, sometimes taking three or four people, the odd goat, roofing sheets and a bunch of bananas!   “Matoke”  is the staple diet, sort of a green banana that is cooked and looks a bit like sweet potato but is tasteless and needs large dollops of chilly and peanut and garlic sauce to rev it up! 

We saw a good chunk of the country, travelling from Kampala through President Museveni’s home town, Mbarara, down to Ankole province. That whole area, incidentally, was hard hit in the late seventies during the political upheavals.   Those years of conflict virtually wiped out a whole generation of people leaving a huge gap in the population.  The towns are pretty ugly and there are still burnt out buildings and rusting tanks scattered here and there.  No matter how run down the towns were there was ALWAYS at least one cell phone shop.  Uganda must have the most cell phones per capita than any other nation!  Toothless grannies in the middle of nowhere even have a cell, mostly used for texting errant children in different corners of the country no doubt!

We spent the night at a simple, pleasant guest house in Ankole  in the South West and then crossed over the Kazingu Channel, linking Lake George with Lake Edward and on into Queen Elizabeth National Park where we saw herds of elephant buffalo and cob, an antelope that is the image of the impala but they don’t leap!  Then we carried on up north skirting the mountains (not really visible because of the cloud) past several little gypsum and cobalt mines,  Lakes Edward and George, a few more little game parks and on up to Fort Portal, the  town closest to Mweenge Tea Estate, our destination for a few days. On our way there we went past Chibali Forest, famous for chimp trails.

 The estate is on the edge of a rain forest  and the gardens  were  absolutely full of the most amazing bird and butterfly life, with occasional visits from seriously hairy baboons, collobus monkeys and Chimps.  There is usually a beautiful view of the Ruwenzori Mountains (always snow capped) but we didn’t see them because of the cloud. 

We travelled back to Kampala, a three hour journey,  on an excellent road that took us through totally different, but still thoroughly green, cell-phone, banana and palm tree fringed country.  On the way back to the airport, via The Boma, we stopped off for an evening meal with old mates from Lusaka. They live between Kampala and Entebbe and love the place so much they have bought their own home; freehold!  They have teenage daughters who have spent most of their teen years in Kampala and were off for a night on the town after supper, in a taxi!  Crime rate very low. 

After a short night’s sleep at the Boma, we were up at 3.00 a.m. to catch our Kenya Airways flight from Entebbe to Nairobi and then on back to Lusaka.  Flights to Entebbe are fairly pricey from Lusaka as they all go via Nairobi.  There’s a cheaper flight out of Jo’burg that takes one directly to Entebbe.  For more information on Uganda and holidays in this wonderfully green and pleasant northern neighbour, email the Eye Magazine:  theeye@theprinthouse.co.ug. It’s Uganda’s equivalent of The Lowdown and is packed full of tourist information.