November 2006


 

 

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November 2006

 

A Livingstone Problem

 

Kachere Art Studios

 

The Borderline between Arts and Crafts

 

Straight On!

 

Land of Rice and Honey

 

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Restaurant Review

Rhapsodys

ZigZag

Chanters

 

Book Review : Wild Life

 

Luangwa Valley Dispatches

 

Mazabuka Mutterings

 

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Restaurant Review

Rhapsody’s

Heading back from Namibia, we stopped off in Livingstone for two nights. Livingstone doesn’t have a huge selection of restaurants, although the numbers are increasing rapidly, but we decided we would take a trip to the newly opened shopping mall (much like a mixture of Lusaka’s Manda Hill and Arcades in terms of shops, but it will certainly make a huge difference to Livingstone residents in terms of general shopping) to see what restaurants were there.

Yes, there was a Rhapsody’s. Although I hate to admit it, I have only once been to Rhapsody’s in Lusaka and that was at lunch time, so it was a good idea to have a meal there and see how this one is doing.

For those who don’t know, Rhapsody’s is a South African franchise although from taking a look at their website, they only seem to have three in South Africa and we now have two in Zambia.

Being a franchise, one knows what to expect on the menu, from the décor, the bar, the bathrooms, so there were no surprises there. But this one does have something different – their al fresco dining area has a very different and very interesting cooling system. This comprises pipes around the edge of the roof which pushes out a light spray of cold water. And very effective it is too. The interior was delightfully cool (remember, this was Livingstone in October). We sat close to the outer edge of the outside dining area, and no, you don’t get wet from the spray, only cool. Certainly makes dining far more pleasant.

As expected, the service was excellent and the staff pleasant. Our waiter, Davison, was a friendly, jovial fellow who, unlike many Zambians, has acquired the social skills that are required in the hospitality industry.  He was also extremely observant, to the extent of noticing that I am left handed (or mostly) and went ahead to make the adjustments to the eating utensils and glasses at my place setting, and this was done in a light-hearted manner with a comment about ‘keeping left’ and ‘following the right channels’ for those who are right handed.

The food at Rhapsody’s is prepared fresh, so is not served ‘instantly’ once ordered. To while away the time until the main course arrived, we were served with a tapa sauce; a spread of sun-dried tomatoes and anchovies served with still-warm bread rolls.

October in Livingstone is not conducive to heavy meals and the portions at Rhapsody’s were perfect, as was the steak – probably the tenderest, most flavoursome I have had in Zambia for a long time.  This is to do with the way the meat is cured (and of course, where the meat comes from – it has to be good quality to start with).

Unlike the Lusaka restaurant, Livingstone does not have a dress code (which makes sense in a tourist town), but if one would like to dress up, then that is OK as well.

In conclusion, we can recommend Rhapsody’s Livingstone with confidence.

 

Zig-Zag

Another ‘newish’ Livingstone dining spot is Zig-Zag, and if you are a Livingstone resident, if you think Zig-Zag, you will think ‘restaurant’. But if you are not a Livingstone resident, you could well think ‘bed and breakfast’ as they also have a ‘bed and breakfast’ on the premises.

A visit to Zig-Zag in the mornings will find numerous Livingstone residents having breakfast there or meeting for mid-morning tea. So if you are in Livingstone and don’t fancy the breakfast where you are staying, then Zig-Zag is a good place to go. They have various choices – the normal English breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausages etc and some variations of this. But they go a step further with healthy choices – healthy cereals etc and their delicious Breakfast muffins.

For lunch and evenings, they have the ‘usual’ menu – steaks, toasted sandwiches, burgers, tacos etc.

When we visited recently, we chose kudu burgers. This was a ‘special’ on the menu at the time and we decided to give it a try. They were well presented, with chips, plenty of them and cooked just to the right stage of crispiness and some salad. The burger was fine except that there was nothing to differentiate it, taste-wise, from a beef burger. But it was certainly a large enough portion; in fact together with the chips, perhaps a little too big. It was fair value for money.

The restaurant itself is open-air (under a corrugated iron roof) and over the last few months, they have improved the décor considerably and now have a pleasant lounge area as well. Clients can also sit under the trees in the garden. This is what I prefer as much of the food is cooked in front of clients in the restaurant and the smell of hot oil is not something I can stomach, especially early in the morning.

Parking is inside the walled premises so your vehicle will be safe although they have a roundabout, round which you are required to travel anti-clockwise.  I, personally, can’t see the reason for this, but I am sure there must be a good one.

If you are in Livingstone and want somewhere for a light meal or breakfast or even a mid-morning tea or cold drink, then we can certainly recommend Zig-Zag.

 

Chanters

Old Lusaka residents will undoubtedly remember Richard Chanter from his days, in the 80’s, as the charismatic, manager of the Ridgeway Hotel (now Holiday Inn). Richard is now running his own guesthouse and restaurant in Livingstone, in Likute Road.  The guesthouse, which is another story for a future Lowdown, can certainly be recommended if you are looking for somewhere quiet to stay with pleasant air conditioned rooms, plenty of hot water, comfortable beds, a swimming pool, nice garden, good value for money, safe parking and away from the crowds of tourists. But today we are concentrating on the restaurant.

Being a guesthouse, it goes without saying that breakfast is served and guests not sta8ing at the guesthouse are welcome for breakfast.  They serve the normal English breakfast : eggs, bacon, tomato, toast but also available is kidney and liver for those that like these delicacies.  And all at a reasonable cost; depending on what you choose the bill will be around K 36,000 (inclusive of service charge and VAT).

They also have a variety of snacks and light meals – Samoosas, omelettes, spring rolls, toasted sandwiches and so on, around the K 13,000 mark.

The rest of the menu gives you a good selection to choose from. For starters, fried kapenta, smoked salmon, chicken livers, vegetarian, pasta. They also have soups, which are good home-made, nothing from a packet.

Main course choices include, amongst other things, Zambezi bream cooked in a variety of ways; a variety of chicken including their delicious chicken bottis. And of course, different beef, pork, vegetarian and pasta dishes.

The specialities of the house include choices not often seen in restaurants but which also appeal : liver with onions, braised oxtail; and their Zambian specialities of game stew, chitonga chicken stew and their Bemba Brown Bean Curry.

Whatever your choice, you can round it off with one of their delicious desserts : pineapple fritters served with fresh cream; lemon pancakes, also served with fresh cream or their delicious chocolate mousse which is dark, sweet and rich. And then at the very end, an Irish, Kahlua or Tia Maria coffee. Or just a plain coffee.

Like the other restaurants in Livingstone, they have tables inside (nice in winter as Livingstone can get cold) or you can dine out on the veranda or in the garden. And whilst dining, you are assured of Richard’s personal attention to your dining requirements also his attention to detail in the kitchen which ensures a delicious meal for you.

Of course, it is also always good to catch up with Richard’s news and to talk about ‘old times’ in Lusaka.